Singapore feels like Oz – an emerald city emerging from the foggy waters of Marina Bay. It is impressive and sincere.
But behind the curtain of finance, tourism, mega-shopping (and an unfortunate smog from somewhere else) lives a very different Singapore – one of a charming Little India, of squat, bright Chinatown, of Haji Lane full of the Middle East, of a thick cultural heritage born by default of its location. It is a port city so has become all things to many Asian cultures even creating its very own, Peranakan. This is the Singapore that gets you away from the big American breakfast buffets and glam indoor malls. And this is why I travel.
Singapore is also the Wizard himself – trying to be something it isn’t with smoke and mirrors and nightly pyrotechnics.
This was eloquently punctuated by a local performance artist, Amanda Heng. A collection of her photographs, videos and installations titled “Speak with me, Walk with me” were on exhibit at SAM, the Singapore Art Museum and I spent hours lingering over her complicated portrait of Singapore. She explores the themes of lost communication and of a shrinking presence of historical Singapore in favour of speed of light change, growth and modernity. Heng’s looks at the city critically.
And change seems to be among the only constants in this worldly city. “There is no room left to build up,” quipped a local Singaporean cab driver. “So we are growing down.” That’s right. A tunnel to the airport no doubt complete with Prada, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. I suppose the reliance on tourism and the great American dollar are too enticing to not embrace the Vegas-way. Big, underground, English speaking.
The official language of Singapore is already English but good luck with that. I had been practicing basic Mandarin in preparation for our trip – by this I mean being able to say ‘thank you’, ‘where are the restrooms?’ and ‘do you speak English?’ but was assured my sloppy Chinese was not a requirement. And it isn’t as long as you are ordering right off the menu, don’t ever have any questions and know where you are going. I love this. A peak behind the curtain. It is where I would rather be anyway.
Nerd Notes: The name Singapore originates from the Malay words “Singa Pura” meaning Lion City. It was named by a 13th century Prince/explorer from Indonesia when upon exploring its shores, was sure he saw what looked like a red headed lion.
British Stateman, Stamford Raffles, is widely acknowledged as the father of Singapore. He was instrumental in establishing the trade route as it exists today through the southern most point of the Malay Peninsula. He was also the mind behind tax-free trade making Singapore a sexy option for traders. It worked.
The Singapore Sling is entirely too sweet. I suffered through one at the Raffles Hotel – home of the original gin dessert. Our table actually drank S$1300 worth – grown men holding glasses shaped like buxom women topped with a speared wedge of pineapple and chemically treated cherry. Really?!?